VIETNAM The Internet Travel Guide ************************************************************************** COPYRIGHT NOTICE: The information provided within this document is the property of the original authors. The author especially reserves the right to the exclusive use of the term "The Internet Travel Guide". Following the common practice of the Internet, this document may be freely redistributed without any modification whatsoever. However, it may NOT be sold for profit or included in any commercial documents (e. g. books, esp. guide books,magazines, WWW-pages, or any other form) without the prior written permission of the copyright holders. This permission is only valid for the published version at the time the permission was granted; it does not extend into the future. Please direct questions, suggestions, comments and flames to geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com Last change: 8. October 1995 ************************************************************************** The main objective of this FAQ is to provide the reader with the newest travel information available, like what is the current situation on visa, where to stay and what prices are reasonable, etc. It is not a guide to the Vietnamese culture or history (although I started to include some information about those subjects as well), for these non-changing facts are much more pleasanlty presented in many good books (see the list in section 4 in this FAQ). Remember: Things change very fast, so by the time you get to Vietnam the information in this FAQ may be outdated. If you encounter this, please bear with me. Instead of being upset, rather share your experiences with other people on the net. The next tourist will thank you if he or she can rely on your new information. Also, if you find time during your travels to write a postcard or a letter to me, I would greatly apreciate it. Some paragraphs are led by the name of the author in brackets. This doesn't mean that these are their only contributions, but rather that I in that case I chose to leave the words as the author wrote them, adding a more personal note to the FAQ. ************************************************************************** CONTENTS Part 1 1. GENERAL OVERVIEW 1.1 GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION 1.2 CLIMATE 1.3 PEOPLE 1.4 VISA 1.5 EMBASSIES 1.6 BORDER CROSSING 1.7 MONEY 1.8 ECONOMY 1.9 MAIL 1.10 TELEPHONE 1.11 ACOMMODATION, HOTELS 1.12 FOOD 1.13 HEALTH 2. TRANSPORTATION 2.1 FLYING 2.2 TRAIN 2.3 ROADS 2.4 BUS 2.5 MINIBUS 2.6 CAR 2.7 MOTORCYCLE 2.8 BICYCLES 2.9 CYCLOS 2.10 TOURS 2.11 GUIDES Part 2 3. PLACES HANOI SAPA HALONG BAY DO SON DONG HA HUE DANANG MYSON HOIAN QUANG NGAI NHA TRANG DALAT CENTRAL HIGHLAND AN KHE PLEIKU KONTUM Part 3 HO CHI MINH CITY SAIGON CHOLON Around HO CHI MINH CITY TAY NINH VUNG TAU MEKONG DELTA MYTHO CANTHO LONG XUYEN CHAU DOC RACH GIA 4. LITERATURE AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 4.1 GUIDEBOOKS 4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES 4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL BOOKS 4.4 NOVELS 4.5 MOVIES 4.6 WWW SITES A. CONTRIBUTORS ************************************************************************** 1. GENERAL OVERVIEW 1.1 GENERAL INFORMATION Area 329,566 km2 Capital Hanoi Borders China (1281 km), Laos (1555 km) and Cambodia (982 km) coastline 3444 km (without islands) Highest point Fansipan (near Sapa), 3143 m Time GMT plus seven hours Measures Metric Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.2 CLIMATE The rainy season is from August until November. Typhoons are frequent, but not too much of a problem. The north can be quite chilly in winter (Dec. - Feb.) The climate in the Delta is sub-equatorial with two main seasons. The wet season lasts from May to October with short downpours occurring almost every day. The dry season lasts from November to April with the last three months of this period being very hot and humid. Annual rainfall for the South is approximately 80 inches (2,000 millimeters) while temperatures remain relatively constant - on average between 77 and 95 degrees F (25-35 C). Between July and November, Vietnam is hit by random, violent typhoons that develop off the coast in the South China Sea. They typically hit the central and north coasts and have been with increasing frequency over the past few years. So, given a choice, when would you go to the Delta? There isn't a time that is clearly preferred by travelers. For those who want to avoid excessive heat, the rainy season would be your better choice. The air is cooler and it is not as dusty as the dry season. However, if you do choose this season, it would be best to go at the beginning. The Delta, being an area of very low relief, often suffers from flooding at this time. In 1994 flooding was severe. Over 180 people died, 1 million people were displaced, and a large percentage of the rice harvest was also wiped out. In cases of flooding, sanitation can also be a problem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.3 PEOPLE Population 73.1 mio (est. July 1994) (annual growth rate 1.78%) 85% Vietnamese, 3% Chinese, Khmers, Chams, and members of 54 minority groups. More than 60% are under 25. Life expectancy at birth is 65 years. Languages Official language is Vietnamese, a mix derived mostly of Mon-Khmer elements with some Tai and Chinese. The language is monosyllabic. Most minorities retain their language, like Chinese, and many Mon-Khmer and Malayo-Polynesian dialects. Today's main foreign language, especially among the young, is English. Especially in the north, French and Russian is spoken. Literacy 88.6% Religion Mainly Buddhism, also Taoism, Confucianism, Hoa Hao, Caodism, Islam and Christianism. (Doug) Most people in Vietnam, especially outside of the main cities, are very poor. There is no doubt that travellers are seen as a potential source of money, and Vietnamese are tenacious negotiators. You will be frustrated at times in negotiating prices. You will feel like you are being ripped off. A couple of tips: Bargain very agressively but keep it friendly. A smile in the middle of a negotiation goes a long way. In some situations, gently touching the person you are negotiating with (on the arm or hand) also helps to keep it friendly. Accept that you are going to end up paying too much for some things and try not to take it personally, it is not intended that way. If the bargaining and rip-offs are starting to really get you down and you are beginning to think that Vietnamese people are just are plain greedy, try the following: When negotiating the price of something, bargain very very agressively to get the absolute lowest price possible, then when you are paying, give them more than the agreed on price, smile and say thank you. Using this technique I have had some wonderful conversations, been given gifts, been invited to peoples homes for tea, made some very good friends, and discovered that Vietnamese people are actually very generous. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.4 VISA To enter Vietnam you will need a visum. You will have to state both entry and exit points when applying. It is normal procedure to enter the airports of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. If you want to enter or exit at another location make sure that it is on the visum. When I applied for my second visum in Vientiane, they forgot to enter Lao Bao, so I had to go back and they changed it (just added Lao Bao in handwriting, so it might even be possible you do it yourself in case of an emergency). I heard that it is possible to get the visum changed at the point of entry or exit for a small fee. Since mid of August 1995 the Vietnamese government no longer issues visa extensions for tourists. However, this might soon be abolished again. Switzerland: After phoning the Vietnamese embassy in Switzerland they faxed me the application form. I filled it in and sent it together with my passport and a cheque over CHF 65 to the embassy. Nine days later I had it back in my letter box, all done. HongKong: In HongKong a visa valid for 30 days costs USD 50 and takes seven working days. This applies to entry/ exit Hanoi/ Ho Chi Minh City. Land crossings are possible, but cost more and the visa takes longer. Bangkok: In Bangkok a visa costs some 800 - 1200 Baht (USD 40 - 60) and takes 4 working days. One address to get them (there are plenty of others) is MK Ways, 57/11 Wireless Road (just south of Ploenchit), Tel 254-7770, FAX 254-5583. Phnom Penh: The Vietnamese embassy in Phnom Penh issues visas for USD 55 within one week. Changing the entrance point on a visa should cost USD 10. Some travel agencies do it faster. USA: World Travel Document Services in Washington DC is selling visas for USD 9.95 (they told me this would remain so throughout 1995). Their phone nr. is 202.785.3250 and fax 202.466.3180. Other information states that a visa costs USD 100. Laos: Since I was going to Laos and wanted to re-enter Vietnam I needed another visa (there is no re-entry anymore the way Lonely Planet writes). I applied for the visa in Hanoi (at Hanoi Youth Tourism Company, 14A Phan Chu Trinh Str.) already (cost USD 20) and they sent a fax to the embassy in Vientiane. There I spent a quarter of an hour altogether, filling in another application form and paying another USD 25. Perhaps it would have worked as easy without the fax from Hanoi. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.5 EMBASSIES VIETNAMESE EMBASSIES ABROAD Australia 6 Timbarra Crescent, O'Malley, Canberra, ACT 2603, Tel (062) 866509 Cambodia Son Ngoc Minh area, Phnom Penh, Tel 25481 China 32 Guangua Lu, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Beijing, Tel 5321125 Germany Konstantinstrasse 37, 5200 Bonn, Tel (0228) 3570201 Laos 1 Thanon That Luang Rd, Vientiane, Tel 413400, 413403, 413409 There are in fact two buidings belonging to the embassy. The first on 1 Thanon That Luang does not issue visas. Walk in the direction of That Luang. The visa is a two or three buildings further on. Switzerland Ch. F. Lehmann 34, 1218 Grand-Saconnex, Tel (022) 798 24 85 Thailand 83/1 Wireless Rd., Bangkok, Tel (02) 2517201, (02) 2515836 USA THe Vietnam Liason Office in Washington DC is issuing visa, although not yet officially named embassy. FOREIGN EMBASSIES IN VIETNAM Many country start to have both, an embassy and a consulate in Vietnam. Normally the embassy is in Hanoi (the capital) and the consulate in Ho Chi Minh City. Cambodia Embassy 71 Tran Hung Dao St., Hanoi, Tel 53788 office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16 Consulate 41 Phung Khae Khon St., Ho Chi Minh City, Tel 92751 and 92744, office hours: Mo-Sa 8-11, 14-16 China Embassy 46 Hoang Dieu St., Tel 253736, 253737 France Embassy 49 Ba Trieu St., Hanoi, Tel 252719, 254367, 254368 Consulate 102 Hai Ba Trung St., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel 297231, 297235 Great Britain Embassy 16 Ly Thuong Kiet St., Hanoi, Tel 252349, 252710 Laos Embassy 22 Tran Binh Trong St., Hanoi, Tel 254576 Consulate 43 Phung Khac Koan St., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel 292751, 292744 Myanmar Building No. A-3, Ground Floor, VanPhuc, Diplomatic Quarter, Hanoi, Tel 253369, Fax 252404 Switzerland 77b Kim Ma St., Hanoi, Tel 232019, Fax 232045 Thailand Embassy Khu Trung Tu, E1, Hanoi, Tel 256043, 256053, 262644 Consulate 77 Tran Quoc Thao St., District 3, Ho Chi Minh City -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.6 BORDER CROSSING The easiest way to cross the border is to fly. Currently there are two entrance points, the airports Noi Bai (Hanoi) and Tan Son Nhat (Ho Chi Minh City). There is a USD 8 departure tax on international flights. However, it is possible to enter and leave Vietnam by land. Cambodia If you already have a Cambodian visa, entering the country from Vietnam by bus is easily the cheapest (US$10.00) way to get to Phnom Penh. For buses to Cambodia, look at the section on buses. Tourists crossing the border have had difficulties, so make sure your visa allows you to exit Vietnam overland and you also have a Cambodian visa to do the same; you can have your exit port changed to Moc Bai at the immigration office in Saigon. Be prepared for at least an hour wait on each side of the border. The bus arrives in Phnom Penh around 4:00 or 5:00 pm. Laos The border crossing at Lao Bao is possible, at least coming from Laos (see my Laos FAQ). From the border to the bus station get on a motorbike. It should cost around VND 4000. The ride takes only a couple of minutes. China It is possible to cross from /into China. The two main border crossing points are Dong Dang (20 km north of Lang Son) and Lao Cai. Dong Dang is on the main line between Hanoi and Nanning (Gunagxi, China). After you have taken the train to Dong Dang, take a motorbike to the border (USD 2), cross the border, take a taxi to Ping Xiang (USD 5), and from there the train to Nanning. If you don't have Dong Dang as exit point, you'll have to pay USD 10. Lao Cai is on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming (Yunnan, China). At Lao Cai, if you don't have Lao Cai as entry point on your visa, you'll be asked to pay USD 40 (March 1995). Take a motorcycle to the town. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.7 MONEY The currency is the Vietnamese Dong (VND). Exchange rate: 1 USD is around 11000 VND (May 95). (Historical development: 10800 in Nov 1993, 8100 in Jul 1991, 7280 in Dec 1990, 3996 in Mar 1990) There is no black market. In fact, until 1. October 94 it was perfectly normal to charge prices in USD, and also to give change in USD. Since then it is no longer legal to charge USD, but USD still is very much on its way to become the main currency within Vietnam. If bargaining do so in VND. Out of simplicity, many people (especially so in the south) calculate the exchange rate at 10000 VND, so you save around 10%. Bring clean bank notes for the north (Hanoi), dirty ones might be refused. Travellers Cheques are easily changeable at banks and money changers. However I'm not sure about denominations other than USD. There is a commission ranging from 1.5% to 2.5%. It seemed to me as if the Vietcom Bank offered the best rates and the least commission and would even change banknotes that other banks would not change anymore (dirty notes). You can get a cash advance on your credit card at Vietcom bank. Of course, there is a 4% commission. Many upper-class restaurants and hotels now accept Visa, Eurocard and American Express. There is a Visa office in Ho Chi Minh City. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.8 ECONOMY GDP (1993) average VND 1'660'000 (then USD 200) Hanoi VND 3'365'000 (then USD 400) Saigon VND 4'595'000 (then USD 550) The richest part of the countryside is the south and the reftile Red River Delta. The poorest is North Central Vietnam, between Hanoi and Hue with around VND 1'000'000. GDP growth was in 1994 around 9%. The above GDP figures use official exchange rates. However, if you take purchasing power the GDP is much higher (about 6 times) so that many people are able to afford TVs, scooters and mobile telephones. Employment by sector: Agriculture 73.1% Industry and construction 13.4% Services 6.5% Since 28th July 1995 Vietnam is a member of ASEAN (Association of South-East Asian Nations. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.9 MAIL Postcards cost about VND 7000 to 8000 for a booklet of ten, obtainable at the post office. Children also sell them, but more expensive. Don't be too annoyed by them, if it saves you the trip to the post office it's probably worth paying a couple dongs more. A postcard to Switzerland costs VND 5000, a letter VND 8000 (or more, depending on the weight). Parcel rates: (as of mid-October 1994) up to 1 kg: VND 95523 1 - 3 kg: VND 131070 3 - 5 kg: VND 170357 5 - 10 kg: VND 238258 10 - 15 kg: VND 328829 15 - 20 kg: VND 404544 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.10 TELEPHONE Vietnams international dial code is 84. Some area codes: Bai Chay 33 Buon Ma Thuot 50 Camau 78 Cantho 71 Chau Doc 76 Dalat 63 Danang 51 Dien Bien Phu 23 Dong Ha 53 Dong Hoi 52 Ha Tien 77 Haiphong 31 Hanoi 4 Ho Chi Minh City 8 Hoi An 51 Hue 54 Kontum 59 Long Xuyen 76 Mytho 73 Nha Trang 58 Phan Rang 62 Phan Thiet 62 Pleiku 59 Quang Ngai 55 Qui Nhon 56 Rach Gia 77 Tay Ninh 66 Vinh 38 Vinh Long 74 Vung Tau 6 It is very easy to phone inside Vietnam. Most hotels will let you make local phone calls, many don't even charge you (don't exploit that, as a polite person always offer them to pay the few Dongs!). International phone calls are possible from many post offices. Typically you give the number to the operator who will type the number for you and direct you to a phone booth. It's in fact direct dialling with somebody else doing the dialling for you. Normally you have to give the a deposit. The international dial code to Vietnam is ++844. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.11 ACCOMMODATION, HOTELS All over Vietnam the standard accommodation is the hotel. The prices range from 3 or 4 USD for a room or a bed to several hundred dollars for a suite in a luxury hotel. Generally, smaller hotels or mini hotels offer better rooms for much the same price (or even cheaper) as bigger ones. And because people are running there own business service is generally much better. You may get anything at any time of the day (or the night). But remember: even though the people are around 24 hours a day (they live in their working place) doesn't mean that they don't enjoy a good night's rest. So don't disturb them unnecessarily. Make sure you agree upon the price for a room in advance. Oftentimes somebody at a busstop tells you there is a cheap hotel that has rooms for USD 6 and when you get to the hotel they give you a room. Unfortunately the room that you get need not be the same USD 6 room, but a more expensive one (which normally is actually better, so the price difference is justified.) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.12 FOOD Eating in Vietnam ranges from the cheap noodle soup for a quarter of a dollar eaten on the street to a banquet in one of the luxury hotels. It seems that restaurants (except the ones in big hotels) have to close at 23:30. Seafood: Along the cost you get excellent fresh seafood. Snakes: In the Mekong delta you are able to get cheap snake. We bought two snakes (one kilogram) and let them be prepared by the restaurant for 70000 VND. There were four of us eating, but it would have served five as well. Beer: There is bottled local beer as well as foreign beer. Some brands are: Hanoi, Saigon (as well as some other cities), Tiger, Heinecken, Guinness, one Laotian brand, as well as a variety of Chinese beer. Try the draft, bia hoi, sold in big kegs. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.13 HEALTH This section only gives some small advice. You should certainly go to a doctor to get the best possible advice, especially on vaccinations (which may change over time). Although Vietnam is not an especially dangerous place, it still poses many health risks. Being aware of these risks greatly reduces the possibility that you get ill. During the time I was in Vietnam I never encountered a health problem. There are certain rules to follow, like not to drink tap water, but generally it is no problem. Since the Vietnamese seem to be aware of the threats to the health and since they are clean (especially when dealing with food), it is no problem to eat and drink what they eat and drink. In my opinion the biggest problem is that the stomach may have troubles to get used to the change of diet. If you do have troubles with your health, go to a doctor or to a pharmacy. They are normally quite knowledgable (certainly more so than you if you are not a doctor) and often have a relatively good selection of medicines (both Asian and Western) that they sell. Of course selling is part of their business, so make sure you know what they want to sell and that you really need it. Check the expiry date! It is a good idea to carry your own sterile needles and sutures. Threats: AIDS, Malaria, rabies, hepatitis, dengue fever, typhoid, tuberculosis and dioxins from Agent Orange. Advisable vaccinations include polio, tetanus, typhoid, hepatitis A, rabies and meningities. Althought AIDS is especially a problem with drug addicts, the number of prostitutes with AIDS is rising sharply and will probably soon be the biggest. Always use condoms, and remember to bring them from back home where you can check the quality. Malaria Malaria (from French 'mal air', bad air) is an infection of the blood caused by the bite of moscitoes (Anopheles). The decay of the red blood cells causes fever. Depending on the type of malaria these fever shocks appear every three (malaria tertiana) or four (malaria quartana). Death rate of malaria is less than 1%. There have been many discussions on how to best deal with it and even the doctors have not yet agreed on a single opinion. There are people who vote strongly in favour of using prophylactics such as Lariam. Apart from possible side-effects (like mental problems, nightmares, and a higher photo-sensitivity of the skin), these drugs do not prevent you getting malaria. You still have to go to a doctor and they make treatment more difficult. Another problem is that the strains of malaria get resistant after some time and another strain has developed for which a cure still has to be found and the native population is not yet resistant. Another possibility, recomendable especially for longer trips or for sensitive people is to carry an emergency package with you. If using Lariam, an example, you use three pills as soon as you feel malaria coming up, after twelve hours you take another two and after another twelve hours the last pill. You have to go to a doctor as soon aspossible. The most effective way to prevent malaria are mosquitoe repellant (possibly with at least 20% DEET, or citronella.) Since mosquitoes are only active after sundown and before sunset, make sure you wear clothes that cover the skin and use a good mosquitoe net. ************************************************************************** 2. TRANSPORTATION There is no need for travel permits. However, there might be some sensitive areas where the local police doesn't like foreigners. Talk to fellow travellers. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.1 FLYING Vietnam Airlines will have all their Russian aircraft phased out by the end of 1994 when they will be flying Airbus A310s. The airline is also being advised by Air France, so it is now much safer to fly with them. I've flown only twice: from Hanoi to Vientiane (USD 80) and from DaNang to Saigon (USD 85). Other prices: NhaTrang to Hanoi: USD 130, Hanoi to Saigon: USD 160, NhaTrang to Saigon: USD 55, Dalat to Hue: USD 75. Most routes have a daily flight (DaNang - NhaTrang doesn't) and are easily available (I booked the flight from DaNang to Saigon one hour before departure). (Howard) Hanoi: Noi Bai (the Hanoi airport) is approximately 35 miles from Hanoi proper. Cabbies wait outside the exit, though a few (high-priced ones) will attempt to get to you before you exit the building. You should not get a cab inside the terminal. Wait until you get outside where fares are totally negotiable. The market seemed to bottom out at about $4/person. Minibus prices were similar to low-end cab fares. Haiphong: Haiphong is serviced only by VA with Tupolov (Russian-made) aircraft. Flights depart to Hanoi ($50/one way), Danang ($85/one way) and maybe other spots. Fares from the city of Haiphong to Haiphong Airport were approximately $4/person for the 20 minute taxi ride. Danang: Danang Airport is a "hub", again serviced only by VA with Tupolov (or smaller) aircraft. Taxi service from the airport is a monopoly controlled by the city of Danang. Fares are fixed. No competition. No bargaining. From the airport to downtown Danang (about a 5-10 minute drive) is $5/person (ridiculously high). From the airport to Hue (approx. a 2 hour drive) is $15/person in an a/c car (relatively reasonable). Saigon: Tay Son Nhat Airport is located at the north end of the city. It is approximately a $2 cyclo drive (30 minutes) or a $6 cab ride (10 minutes) from the main tourist areas of the city. Note that if you take a cyclo, you will have to hire another motorbike for the last mile or so because the airport entrance road is a no-cyclo zone. Tay Son Nhat is serviced by a variety of carriers including Singapore, Cathay Pacific, Malaysia, VA, Thai, Pacific, China Air, and others. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.2 TRAIN There are four classes: Soft Sleeper, Hard Sleeper, Soft Seater, and Hard Seater. Trains are a much better (more comfortable) way than buses when you have to cover long distances. Depending on which class you take you have more or less space, and meet less or more nice, interesting people. (Howard) Trains are a great way to get around if you choose to travel at night, but they aren't for the impatient. This is because they don't go very fast and because there's only one track in the country. Thus, trains have to wait at designated passing places for others to go by. Generally, a 400km trip takes between 9 and 13 hours depending on whether your train is an express or not. For a hard seat on the Nha Trang to Saigon leg, fares were about $10. A soft seat (which is definitely worth the added $$ given the narrowness of the Vietnamese seats) upped the price to $15, while a sleeper was about $25. Another thing to keep in mind is that whether a train is an express or not doesn't matter nearly as much as where the train is coming from. For example, if you want to go from Nha Trang to Saigon on the express train (which starts in Hanoi), bad weather in the north might delay its arrival. Thus, a non-express train starting closer to your embarkation point (e.g. in Qui Nhon) might get you to your destination faster than a delayed express. It costs $18 for a "soft seat" in a 2nd class coach between Nha Trang and Danang, overnight train. Meals provided. I only took one train, from Hue to DaNang which runs along one of the nicest pieces of railroad you'd ever encounter. Departure time was 1 pm and it cost USD 5 (express fare, normal fare is USD 4). I was told to be at the train station half an hour before departure time to buy the ticket. As I travelled off peak there was no problem, I'm wondering how one will get tickets during high season. The whole fare between Saigon and Hanoi is supposedly USD 125, first class. You can stop as much as you like in between. (John) The train from Hanoi to Hue took fourteen hours and was $25 for a soft seat. While I was on board a train conductor asked if I wanted a sleeper. He originally asked $20 more for the sleeper, but I was firm on my offer of $5. The 'sleeper' was not a real sleeper but a small flat luggage storage area. It was private and horizontal, and a blanket was provided. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.3 ROADS The main road in Vietnam is the national Highway 1 from Hanoi to Saigon. Although not in the very best condition, it still is one of the better maintained roads. Every kilometer there is a stone with the distance to the Chinese border written on it. Road travel is very slow, averaging from 20 km/h (an average bus) up to 60 km/h in a good car on highway 1. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.4 BUS Local busses are easy to travel with, but a bit uncomfortable. Be aware that you will probably be cheated, i.e. you pay more than the local people. But prices are still very cheap, about VND 20000 (USD 1.82) for NhaTrang to Saigon. (Rick) There are two types of bus, express and local. Express buses are considerably faster than local buses, which drop off and pick up peasants and their produce at each cluster of houses along the highway. A good rule of thumb is that local buses average 15-25 km/h over the course of a journey, while express buses rarely exceed an average speed of 35 km/h. Express buses also have the benefit of being given priority at ferry crossings, which can save considerable time at each crossing. Since they are slightly more expensive than regular buses, people hauling around large packages to make a few extra dong reselling something, will probably consider their time and comfort less valuable and will choose local buses over express ones. Most inter-city buses leave early in the morning. Sometimes half a dozen vehicles serving the same destination will depart at the same time. Short- distance buses leave when full (i.e. jam-packed with people), operating throughout the day, but don't count on anything leaving after 4:00 pm. Vietnam has instated a 'foreigner with insurance' fee for the local busses. There is a local bus from the border at LaoBao to Hue at around 3:15 pm. It cost VND 20000 (foreigner price?). The bus from Hue to Hoi An costs USD 8. Touristbus from Hoi An to NhaTrang is $9. Going from the other direction, from NhaTrang to Hoi An is more expensive. (John) I took a local bus from Nha Trang to Danang. The local price was $1.70. The 'foreigner with insurance' fee price was $6.30. The seat was a board. The ride was the most uncomfortable I have ever experienced. The bus broke three times on the way. The tourist bus cost $7 and I really wish I had taken it. (John) Generally, the tourist busses are fairly comfortable. Since most travelers go from the south to the north, the northbound busses tend to be more expensive. Beware of the tourist busses stopping at restaurants that expect tourists to order off menus that have no prices. I know some tourists who were GROSSLY overcharged at these establishments. I personally don't order off menus that have no prices. The driver stops there because he gets a free meal, and perhaps a cut of whatever the restaurant makes. Saigon: The bus station for the busses leaving south is Mien Tay Bus Station, 10 km west of Saigon on Hung Vuong Blvd. in An Lac. It is about half an hour by cyclo from Ben Thanh Market. Express buses to Bac Lieu, Camau, Cantho, Chau Doc, Long Xuyen, and Rach Gia depart twice a day: at 4:30 am and at 3:00 pm. Tickets are sold beginning at 3:30 am for the early buses and from 12:00 noon for the afternoon runs. Express bus tickets can also be bought at 121 Chau Van Liem Blvd. in Cholon; 142 Hung Vuong Blvd. west of Cholon; and at 638 Le Hong Phong St. in District 10. Local buses from Mien Tay serve An Phu, Bac Lieu, Ben Tre, Camau, Cantho, Chau Doc, Ha Tien, Long An, Long Phu, Long Xuyen, My Thuan, My Tho, Phung Hiep, Rach Gia, Sa Dec, Tay Ninh, Tra Vinh, Vinh Chau, and Vinh Long. Busses to PnomhPenh, Cambodia leave Monday to Saturday at 140 Nguyen Du and at the Phnom Penh Garage at 155 Nguyen Hue Blvd. at 5 am and take around 9 hours. It costs USD 5 or USD 11, depending if it is a Cambodian or a Vietnamese one. You should buy the tiket in advance at the ticket office next to the Rex Cinema. Mytho: The bus station is 2 to 2 1/2 miles (3-4 km) from town on the road towards Saigon and Vinh Long (continuation of Ap Bac St.), a third of a mile (1/2 km) past the city gates. It is open from 4:00 am to 5:00 pm. There is no express service between Saigon and My Tho. However there are regular connections with Saigon's Mien Tay station in An Lac that leave when full from early in the morning until about 5:00 pm and take 1 1/2 hours to complete the trip. There is also daily bus service to Cantho (5 hours), Chau Doc, Phu Hoa, Tay Ninh (6 hours), and Vung Tau (5 hours). Cantho: You can find the station just over a mile (2 km) northwest of town along Nguyen Trai St., near the intersection with Hung Vuong St. and Route 4. Regular connections with Saigon's Mien Tay terminal take 4-5 hours and other buses serve additional locations in the Mekong Delta. Long Xuyen: The station is about a mile (1 1/2 km) east of town on Tran Hung Dao Street The route serving Saigon's Mien Tay station takes 6-7 hours to travel, while Chau Doc is 1 1/2 hours away. Buses also go to Cantho, Vinh Long and other destinations in the Delta. There are a number of private minibus companies in town offering a faster and more comfortable service than the regular buses. They stop on Hung Vuong St., not far from the cathedral, but check with the An Giang Tourist Office at 6 Ngo Gia Tu Street. Chau Doc: The bus station is southeast of town on the south side of Le Loi Street, about a mile (1 - 2 km) from the town center and past the church. You can pick up minibuses in town on Quang Trung Street. Buses to Saigon's Mien Tay station take 6-7 hours to make the trip, including 2 ferry crossings. Buses also go to Long Xuyen, Cantho and other points in the Delta. Rach Gia: Rach Gia Bus Station is south of town on Nguyen Trung Truc St. Local and express buses (taking 8 hours) go to Saigon's Mien Tay terminal and to Ha Tien near the Cambodian border. Also, there are non-express connections with Cantho, Dong Thap, and Long Xuyen. Bus services to rural destinations near Rach Gia operate between 3:30 am and 4:30 pm. These include Duong Xuong, Giong Rieng, Go Quao, Hon Chong, Kien Luong, Soc Xoai, Tan Hiep, Tri Ton, and Vinh Thuan. There is also an express bus service leaving from an office at 33 30 Thang 4 Street. The Cantho bus leaves at 5:00 am, one for Ha Tien at 4.30 am, and Saigon at 3:45 am. Another express bus to Saigon leaves every morning at 4:00 am from 78 Nguyen Trung Truc Street. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.5 MINIBUS A very convenient way of transportation (very touristy as well) are special minibusses travelling between tourist centers. They are more expensive than normal busses, but at least you get a whole seat. They also fetch you from your hotel (or you can ask them) and drop you at a cheap hotel (or any hotel of your choice) at your destination city. Some prices: Hanoi - Hue USD 20 DaNang - NhaTrang USD 15 HoiAn - NhaTrang USD 11 NhaTrang - Saigon USD 10 to 11 (depending on the travel agent) Saigon - Dalat USD 7 It is also possible to rent a minibus. This may be a good alternative if your party is large enough, although I'm not quite sure if it is cheaper. See also next section. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.6 CAR It should be possible to rent or buy a car, but I didn't check it. Anyway, with the traffic in Vietnam it would not be fun anyway. It certainly is possible to rent a car with a driver for a day. The rates are somthing like USD 15 to USD 100 (depending on the car, the place you rent it from, the region, and your bargaining skills). (John) Three other people and I rented a Russian jeep in Hanoi to travel in northwest Vientam. The cost for the six-day trip was $320 including driver. Be forewarned: Travel in an old russian jeep can be quite uncomfortable due to its tight suspension and firm seats. Also, check to see that there is a seal on the rear door of the jeep because the dirt roads in the Northwest can produce massive amounts of dust that will enter the vehicle if the seal is missing. The dust can make the trip quite uncomfortable. Our jeep was very slow and stopped working near the end of the trip. If a modern vehicle such as a Toyota landcruiser is available, I would suggest taking it, even if the landcruiser costs $450. (Rick) In Saigon, it is possible to hire good Japanese cars and minivans for day trips or week-long excursions. If your party or expense account is large enough, this can be a reasonable means of travel. Ask to go for a test ride to see if the car is running properly before deciding on a driver. Expect to pay US$40 per day for a comfortable car from a reputable tourist agency. Try Burotel Tourist (Tel: 293-727) for car rental services that are considerably cheaper than Vietnamtourist, Saigontourist, and most hotels. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.7 MOTORCYCLE It's easy to rent a motorcycle to get around. Usual rates are USD 4 to USD 7 for a day for a 50 cc to 100 cc Honda or Yamaha. Fuel is a bit less than VND 3000 for one liter, although you'll be charged VND 3000 flat. But then, you'll be able to get fuel every couple of meters, so you don't have to be too careful about running out of it. Motorcycles (in Vietnamese xe om, meaning "hugging vehicle": the passenger wraps his or her arms around the drivers waist so as not to fall down) are replacing the cyclo as a means of transportation. The rate is comparable to cyclos. If you are in a hurry, you can try to flag down a motorcycle for a ride on the back (most drivers are not adverse to making a bit of extra money) or ask a local to find a Honda ong for you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.8 BICYCLES It is fun to rent a bicycle and to ride around. Rates are around USD 1 for a day. It is also possible to buy bicycles and even mountainbikes, but beware of the quality. Old types are sure to be maintained everywhere. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.9 CYCLOS A nice way to tour a city is to rent a cyclo. Rates are normally VND 5000 for a ride of up to 10 minutes in Saigon (there seems to be no way to get a cheaper one, even for only a couple of hundred meters). Locals pay half that price. You can also get a tour of one hour for USD 1! In Hanoi prices are more related to the distance and are a bit more expensive. Lars used to get short cyclo-rides, <20 min, for VND 2-3000 in Saigon. But not always, some drivers refused to go for this price. There are about 37000 cyclo drivers alone in Ho Chi Minh City. Drivers that regularily drive foreigners can make up to USD 100 a month, four times what a factory worker gets. A cyclo costs USD 150 to buy or USD 1 to rent for a day. Since July 1995 cyclos are beeing banned from the center of Ho Chi Minh City because - according to officials - they would slow up other traffic. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.10 TOURS Many cafes offer organised tours from one to 12 days. Although the tours are touristy sometimes they provide an easy and time saving (sometimes even money saving) way of seeing a lot. Some tours are: (prices vary depending on the organising cafe and on what is included (accommodation, meals, etc.)) Hanoi (Darling Cafe, Queen Cafe, Green Bamboo, often your hotel) Halong Bay Two days USD 22 - 25 Halong Bay and Catba Island Three days USD 30 HoaLu One day USD 10 Sapa Four days USD 40 (John) The $10 'Around HaNoi' day tour arranged through The Green Bamboo Cafe I found to be a particularly good value. It included visiting a silk village, noodle village, snake farm (for lunch), pottery village, and some caves. Hue (many hotels) DMZ One day, USD 15 Saigon (Kim Cafe, Sinh Cafe) CaoDai temple, CuChi tunnels One day, USD 5 Mekong delta Two days, USD 18 - 25 Mekong delta Three days USD 30 - 40 They usually have excellent guides that speak very good English. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2.11 GUIDES (Howard) Guides: Many people will approach you offering their services as guides, drivers, etc. We averaged between $6-15/day for one guide with a motorbike (they pay petrol; we paid most meals). You will *need* to hire some of them as a means of transportation and to make your day go more smoothly (they know the way; they know if roads or bridges are washed out; they are able to drive for hours without losing their minds or their limbs; etc.). Moreover, a good guide can make a trip into an experience. Unfortunately, a bad guide can be quite frustrating and end up costing you money. In general, professional guides take you to the restaurants and shops of their friends and get a cut of whatever you buy [I'm not too sure about that. Peter]. There's nothing wrong with that as long as the shops have what you want *and* they are giving you a fair price *and* you want to go to the shops (remember, the guide was hired by you to look after *your* interests). Knowing what things should cost is the key to not getting screwed. If you tell your guide that you need a bus from a to b, don't buy a ticket at the first place he takes you unless you know the market rate for the trip. We got suckered in Danang by Thai Quang Lam ("Lam") and Nguyen Van Tien ("Tien") solely because we didn't follow this rule. They were good guides, but they let their friends really rip us off on a minibus trip to Nha Trang. Moreover, be assertive. If you want to go to a certain hotel, don't let a cyclo/taxi driver take you somewhere else -- even if he assures you in his most earnest tone that his recommendation is cheaper, nicer, cleaner, etc. Be as insistent (and as polite) as they are. Having endured many such experiences, I found that we *always* went where I wanted to go when I threatened to hop out of the cyclo/taxi in mid-trip. 3. PLACES (part 1) HANOI Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. Aproximately one million people live there. It is (in my opinion) Vietnam's most beautiful city. With many French colonial building the old part of the city retains a special charm, with many shops virtually spilling their goods into the streets. If you want to buy something you have to know in what street it is sold, i.e. there is a shoe street, a noodle shop street, a clothes street, a funeral articles street, etc. Its streets are lined with trees, giving the city a wonderful green colour and providing shade. People in Hanoi are perhaps not as easy going as people in Saigon, but they are more hospitable and much friendlier. They are not thinking only of how to make money out of you. Many new houses are being built, but they are mostly typical Vietnamese, some 2.5 to 6 m wide and more than 40 m deep. They have 4 to 6 stories, on each story a beautiful balcony facing the street. Old and new buildings integrate easily, never destroying the picture of the 'old' town. Attractions include the Temple of Literature, the beautiful Hoan Kiem lake, the Hoan Keim district (the old center, with many beautiful, small shops), the St. Joseph's Cathedral, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the one pillar pagode just next to it. One of the most exceptional evenings I spent in Hanoi was the visit to the water puppet theater. After an introduction of Vietnamese music, the show started. It is actually a series of scenes from Vietnamese everyday life, depicted by beautifully carved and painted puppets. They are held on long sticks by people standing in the water behind a bamboo screen. Admission was USD 2 or USD 4 with cassette, and they charge USD 1 for photographing. The Hoa Lu Prison (aka Hanoi Hilton) is a drab triangle. There is nothing to see and photographing is prohibited. Reportedly, it has beed dismanteled in March 1995. Hotels The main area for budget accommodation is the Hoan Kiem district (also known as the old town), just north of the Hoan Kiem lake. VietMy, 21 Mai Hac De Str. USD 20 for a double room with one double bed, bath with hot water, air condition and fan, refridgerator, satellite TV (!) and tooth brush, tooth paste, towels, shower lotion, rasor blades, etc. provided. The rooms are clean and furnished with beatifully carved traditional Vietnamese furniture. It opened beginning of June 1994. BinhMinh: There are three Binh Minh hotels in Hanoi. The addresses are: 27 Ly Thai To str.: The expensive one with prices from USD 30 50 Hang Be: rooms with private shower (warm water) and toilette for USD 10 or USD 12 39 Hang Be: four bed dormitory for USD 4 per bed. Chinese style toilette, shower with hot water. These hotels belong to the same person. I'm not sure about the first one, but the last two certainly do. He also has a hotel at Halong Bay. The people running the places are extremely friendly. They always talk to the travellers and invite them to sit down with them and drink tea. They also book tours to Sapa, Halong Bay, etc. for you. An very pleasant place is the Dong Xuan Hotel in the old town, just next to the market at 3 Thanh Ha St. They have rooms with airconditioning and bath for USD 12. Many people also recommended the Lotus Guest house. The managers speak German. One of the most inexpensive places is Nha Khach Van Nghe (Guest House Culture), at 22A Hai Ba Trung Street. It's right in the centre, nicely located around a small courtyard. Well worth the money, $3-$15. There is now a dormitory called Bi Bi Guesthouse that costs $4/night. Hotel Mini, 24 Nha Chung , tel. 2.69823, fax: 84.42.50099. The rooms cost from USD 13 to 25. The North Hotel 2 has reportedly cheap rooms for USD 12. Definitely the best hotel in Hanoi, and certainly the one with the most tradition is the otel Sofitel Metropole. It is located at 15 Pho Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kien, Tel 266919, Fax 266920. Food In Hanoi make sure you visit Cha Ca Restaurand at 14 Cha Ca St. They serve excellent fried fish (the only menu available.) A good place for seafood is Restaurant - Bar 92 at 92 Mai Hac De Str. When we (5 Westeners) showed up, we were led upstairs to a big table. There they began to show us what they were offering. To cut the tedious selection process short, we said how much we wanted to pay and that they shoud just bring a good selection of their specialities. Excellent Chinese and Vietnamese dishes are available in Kinh Hoa restaurant at 6 Le Thai To Str., but this place is a bit more pricey. Cheap are the traveller's cafes. They all have western style as well as simple Vietnamese style dishes from as little as 3000 VND. They all organise tours around Hanoi (see tours section). There are the two Darling cafes in Hang Quat, the Queen Cafe at 65 Hang Bac (which is a big expat hangout), Kolo-friendship cafe at 24 Mai Hac De Str., Tourist's Meeting Cafe, 59 Ba Trieu st (corner with Tran Quoc Toan), the Lonely Planet Cafe and the Green Bamboo. The Green Bamboo is run by the original runner and inventor of the first traveller's cafe, the Darling Cafe. It also has a book exchange service. (Michael) A nice restaurant in Hanoi is Ngu Ngu Ngu (aka Five Royal Fist) at 16 Le Thai To street, on the second floor of a theatre with nice views of Hoan Kiem Lake. The place caters to ex pats, fills up quickly and serves everything from nicely prepared Vietnamese food to pizza, steak, sandwiches, burgers, etc. (The fried potatoes are superb.) We were there on the 20th anniversary of the reunification (April 30th) and had a wonderful view of the fireworks display on Hoan Kiem Lake. (Lotta and Johan) Sad to say, but the best restaurant we found was not vietnamese but Italian. Anyone who yearns for western food should go to A Little Italian at 81 Tho Nhuom St. Evenings, it's better to make a reservation, phone 258167. They have wonderful pizza and pasta dishes. It's quite expensive though - most of the pastas cost 4$50. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- SAPA Located in the middle of breathtaking landscape, Sapa is one of the most wonderful places in all of Asia. Being a former French hill station, it is situated in the midst of mountains, just south of the Fansipan, with 3143 m the highest point of Vietnam. It is very convenient located for hiking in the surrounding area, where you can visit many small villages of minorities, mainly the Hmong (Meo) and the Dao. Make sure you are there for the weekend, as there is a market. Especially the Hmong sell beautifully embroidered bags, caps, jackets, etc. (Lotta and Johan) A wonderful place. The surroundings are breathtaking, and the atmosphere friendly. During weekends, the minority people walk down from the mountains to sell their goods and handicrafts at the market in Sa Pa. They wear their beatiful costumes, and they would wear them even if the tourists weren't there, which felt good. At night the Hmong people gathered on the street, and the young girls and boys sang traditional, monotonous tunes to one another to find a husband or a wife. All the tribes members, as well as some tourists, gathered around them and listened. As a couple had found each other and finished singing, they left hand in hand. Let's just hope tourism doesn't spoil this wonderful place! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- HALONG BAY The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon decends into the sea'. This wonderful landscape with its 3000 islands rising from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin resembles very much the famous mountains of Guilin, China. Make sure you make a boat trip (rent a boat or take part of an organised tour, see tous.) (John) It is very convenient and a good value to take a organized tour, and it doesn't cost that much more than it would cost to go on your own. The 2-day organized tours usually include transportation there and back (5 hours each way), two 3-4 hour boat rides, two lunches, one dinner, one breakfast, and overnight accommodation. Mine cost $22. Three day tours are also available which include a day at Cat Ba national park. Cat Ba Cat Ba island is a national park. It is covered by tropical forests and is home to a variety of animals. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- HOA LU (Lars) Among the more scenic areas I would recommend is the vicinity of the old capitol of Hoa Lu (I think the first emperors lived there), just outside Ninh Binh. The landscape shows the same type of sharp-rising cliffs/mountains as in Ha Long, although here you'll find small rice-fields in between. Take a boat ride along the small rivers (they actually pass under the mountain in a few places); go exploring caves (I didn't have time); or just stroll down the dirt road between the cliffs. It's beautiful! Close by are other places well worth a visit: Bich Dong pagoda and Tam Cuc. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK (Lars) A high-altitude, mountain rainforest. Several trails for the hiker. Approx. 70 km northwest of Ninh Binh. Hostel-style accomodation available. Didn't look too clean but I would have stayed one or two nights, if only I would have known about it. Also better looking huts, but I don't know any prices or where to rent them. Can be reached from Ninh Binh or on daytours from Hanoi. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- DO SON Do Son is said to be the most beautiful beach (actually there are three beeches!) in the northern part of Vietnam. There is a casino (the only one in Vietnam?). There are some villas at one of the three beaches for USD 20. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- VINH MOC When the villagers of Vinh Moc found themselves to be in a 'free-fire zone' in 1966, they began to dig the 2.8 km long tunnel system. There were up to 1200 persons living in these tunnels. Since it is easy to get lost in the maze of tunnels, be sure to hire a local guide. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- DONG HA Nha Tro, Hai Ly: I'm not quite sure about the name, but this is a small mini hotel on the right side of a little side street just off the main road, opposite the bus terminal. It has pleasant rooms with a double bed and private shower (cold water only) and toilette for USD 6. People are friendly and can organise a tour to the DMZ (on motorcycle for some USD 10 to 20.) Try the Phung Hoang mini hotel at 63 Le Duan (Hwy 1). It is run by a nice family, and the food is excellent. The rooms are USD 10 or less. There is a tour guide named Jimmy Hoa who is reported to be fair and well- informed. He served as a Sgt. in the Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) during the war and worked as an interpreter for the US 3rd Marine Division for three years. He will organise tours to the sites around Dong Ha. Don't use the Quang Tri tourist department. They chage too much and don't deliver. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- HUE Hue was the national capital from 1802 to 1945. 13 emperors of the Nguyen dynasty lived in the forbidden city. I didn't like Hue. This may have been because of the rain or because I expected too much from the sights. The city itself is nothing special. The main attraction, the Imperial City is mostly bombed flat (one of the haviest battles of the American War took place in Hue during the Tet Offensive in 1968). The few remaining buildings (five if I remember correctly) all have been converted to souvenir shops. And all of this for USD 5 (1995, USD 3.5 in Oct 94)! A little outside of the city are several old tombs from former emperors. The admission costs USD 5 each! As an alternative try to walk around the tomb to find any open gates where nobody charges admission. (Michael) The Minh Mang tomb is poorly preserved, but the setting is beautiful. Tu Duc is in better shape, but the layout is not as nice. It is a long, long walk from the river to Tu Duc. Thien Mu is worth it if just to see the famous car (see LP). (John) Hue has brought in the new year (1995) with raising their prices on all their attractions from an expensive $3.50 to an outrageous $5.00 per foreigner. The local prices are $0.50. The tombs are really not that great, A fair price is $1-2 to see them. I would visit one tomb only since many of them are very similar. At the Imperial City I joined two other people to hire a guide for $3. His English was excellent and the guide was well worth it. (John) The tombs are on the outskirts of town and are reachable by boat for $4/person if organized through the Morin. A boat can be hired privately for $12. The tombs can also be reached by bicycle. Upon visiting one of the tombs I was charged 0.50 each way to cross a river by boat with my bicycle. (Michael) To get across the river to the Dong Ba market, check for private boats at the Huong Giang end of the Dap Da bridge and river taxis at the other end. Be sure to negotiate the price before getting on the boat. Tourist price seems to be about a dollar to get across the river. (Michael) Cruises both directions on the Perfume River are well worth it. We engaged a 'dragon boat' for $12 a day. One day we went out to Thuan An beach for the day. Another day we went the other way to visit a few tombs. Both trips were very nice and much enjoyed by my daughter. Negotate directly with the boat owner for the best price. Again, try getting a boat near the Dap Da bridge, or just down the river from the floating restaurant. The airport bus into the city costs USD 1. Tell the driver where you would like to go and chances are he will take you directly there. He will also know good guest houses. Hotels Morin Hotel: A good backpacker hangout, with rooms from USD 8 to USD 20. This holel is under restauration, but there are still some rooms available. When it will open fully again it will probably be much more pleasant, but also more expensive. (Doug) You hear a lot about the Morin Hotel in Hue, both good and bad. It's probably the most popular, or at least well-know traveller's hotel in Hue. I have never stayed there, but I did have a cuppa cafe sua in the court yard cafe last month. The place has a lot of history but something that most travellers don't know is that the Morin and the streets and buildings around it, were the setting for some dramatic events during the battle for Hue city in the communist Tet Offensive in February 1968. At the time, the Morin housed Hue University. Just down and across the street (away from the river) is a walled complex that is currently a police or military site. In 1968 this complex was the MACV (Military Assisstance Command Vietnam) compound, a US military command center. That building was the only significant US position in Hue that was not captured by the communists in the Tet Offensive. Actually there were not many US troops inside Hue at all prior to 68. The MACV compound was mostly an adminstrative site. But, with reinforcements from Phu Bai just down the highway, it did become the command centre for the recapture of Hue. One of the first buildings recaptured from the communists was Hue University (The Morin Hotel). US troops fought a running battle for the Morin, clearing the building room by room, mostly by tossing hand grenades. Once the Morin was in US hands, motars were set up in the courtyard, and it became a command post supporting attacks against other buildings to the west, such as the heavily fortified Treasury building (now a VietCom Bank). The book "Fire in the Streets" by Eric Hammel, details the battle for Hue, and includes enough detail, maps and photos to allow you to track the progress of the conflict, street by street and building by building. It's not for everyone but reading it can add a new dimension to your visit to the city (cheaper than a visit to the tombs), and may add a poignant edge to your stay at the Morin. I had a look at Le Loi Hotel, near the train station on the street next to the Perfume river. Since I didn't stay there, I cannot really say much, but it certainly did look ok. Many people actually liked the place better than Morin. (Michael) We ended up at the Binh Minh hotel at 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St. It was ok at USD 40 for a huge room with air con, fridge, TV (not satellite), a big bath, breakfast and a double bed and a single bed. However, at night, the air con kept tripping the circuit breaker whenever the compressor came on, and I was up most of the night resetting the breaker. (Michael) So, we moved out and into the Huan Giang Hotel on the river. This cost USD 80 for a huge room with satellite TV, a good buffet breakfast and a two bed room. The river front restaurant at the Huang Giang is (confirming LP) excellent and a very good value. The sunset view is great. The hotel itself fills up every night with groups of French tourists doing Vietnam in a week or some such thing. Food (Michael) The Song Huong floating restaurant is more expensive and not as good as the Huan Giang. Plus, they always practice the 'cold towel' rip-off. If you eat there, have the bill read to you and make sure you are not paying for food, drinks or towells that you didn't use. (Michael) A nice restaurant near the Citadel: Royal City Restaurant (Quoc Huy), 43 Dinh Cong Trang St, near Hien Nohn gate. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- DANANG The city of DaNang doesn't offer much. The Cham museum is the highlight and definitively worth a visit. There is also a nice Cao Dai temple near the train station. DaNang is a good place to start a day trip to My Son. These Cham ruins are definitively worth a visit. A taxi to bring you there, wait for your return and bring you back costs around USD 25. Hotel Sport Hotel: Inside the stadium of Danang there is a hotel with double rooms for USD 15. The rooms have private toilette and shower with hot water. Food In DaNang there is only one travelling cafe, the Lien cafe. It is just opposite the Marble Mountain hotel in the north of the town. They rent a taxi with driver to go to My Son for USD 25, minibusses to Nha Trang are USD 15 and motorcycle are USD 4 (50 cc) and 5 (70 cc) per day. The people are very friendly and can offer many good advice. The food is cheap and good. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- MYSON These Cham ruins are a very beautiful spot to visit. Of course there are some people trying to make money out of you. A taxi or a motorcylce can only go to a small river a bit away from the ruins. There is a ferry and motorcycle transportation service, but it is easy to cross the river a little bit upstream and the walk to the entrance takes only about 20 min. At the ferry station is a tent from the red cross. They show some ugly photographs from people with wounds inflicted either by mines or the war. The main goal is to extract money out of the tourist's pockets. Typical for Vietnam, I was not sure if it was real or a scam. (John) The Cham ruins are nice, but I experienced many hassles upon visiting. I rented a motorcycle for $5 in Hoi An and drove myself to MySon. I bargained the ferry operator from an outrageous $10 to $3 for three people and two motorcycles to cross the pond both ways. Upon parking the motorcycles just before the entrance, we had problems with a guide who did not speak English that insisted we must use a guide to see the ruins. He finally left and stole our gas. We were overcharged by 1000% at the entrance gate, and a begger wanted a toll for crossing a bridge. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- HOI AN Hoi An is a beautiful old city which is nearly undamaged from the wars. It once was the most important port of Vietnam around the time of Macau's peak. Due to the monsoons, many trading vessels (Chinese, Thai, Dutch, Portuguese and even Japanese) took it as an ideal stop. This helped the city to develop into a trading center. Many merchants bought houses to conduct trading activities all year round. The old houses one can visit are beautiful. There are quite a few open to the (paying) public. On the left side of the market there are some silk shops. They only sell the silk, but it is possible to let them tailor a shirt, a dress, trousers, or whatever you wish for you. Prices are USD 2.5 - 4 per meter of silk, to tailor a silk shirt costs around USD 4.5 (including the buttons!). (John) I would suggest renting a bicycle in Hoi An and going on one of the small dirt roads into the nearby villages and around the rice fields. There is a very nice beach nearby that is an easy 5 km bicycle ride away. Hotel There are many hotels and mini-hotels in Hoi An. The Hoi An hotel has dormitories for USD 3. There are other rooms starting at USD 14. However, there are travellers who recomend looking for other hotels. Another one is the Thanh Binh, with nice clean rooms with fan and bath for USD 8 and 10. Unfortunately, the staff could drive you crazy. They were terribly notorious, always screaming at you telling you how beautiful you looked, and then trying to sell you a tour, a transport somewhere or a tailor. Food (Lotta and Johan) The nicest cafe in all Vietnam, in our opinion, was Dzu Dzi, opposite to Thanh Binh on 12 Le Loi St. It was a family business with extremely friendly service and nice food. The kind of place where you can sit all day sipping lemon juice and banana shakes, watching people, writing postcards and chatting to the owners. (Lotta and Johan) Warning: We rented bicycles in Hoi An, and went to the beach. Highly recommended, but do NOT rent a chair or have lunch at the first place to the left as you get down on the beach! They ripped us off. We orded lunch from their menu without asking for the price. Stupid, you might say, and sure it was, but after several weeks in Vietnam we were tired of being paranoid all the time. We ordered grilled prawns and they charged 9000 dong (almost one dollar) for EACH prawn! One serving of squid cost 50000 dong (4$50). We argued with the owner, of course, and after a while, he gave us some of the money back. The little girl waitress came after us later, and said she felt bad about it. Of course, she didn't get any of the money. Shopping (Lotta and Johan) Clothes and silk! There are loads of tailors. We tried Thong, next to Dzu Dzi cafe on 16 Le Loi St. She was nice and did a good job. So did Yaly, next to the market on 27 Tran Quy Cap St., but you had to be patient and really tell them when the result wasn't as you expected. They had a wider collection of fabrics than Thong, Prices? Really cheap, 7$ for a raw silk blouse or a dress in Chinese silk, 4$ for a pair of wide Vietnamese style trousers in Chinese silk etc. I spent a large part of my travel money there! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUANG NGAI This must be the place with the most unfriendly people all over Vietnam. I heard quite a few stories of travellers being hasselled by local people. One English guy even got arrested by the police. He was followed by a cyclo driver, refusing to ride with him. After entering a cafe, the cyclo driver followed him and demanded that he pay him. Of course, he refused. The cyclo driver called the police and the English got arrested. They only let him go after he paid VND 10000 (half of what the cyclo driver demanded, but still about double than what the ride would have costed.) Another traveller was eating his noodle soup when suddenly a Vietnamese started shouting at him in Vietnamese. Although he told the man that he did not understand Vietnamese, the man shouted even loder, and beginning to threat with his fists. Finally the traveller did the best thing in just leaving the place, before the other became violent. These incidents are all the more strange in that I never heard of something like this from somewhere else in Vietnam, where people are mostly friendly and certainly never violent. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- NHA TRANG This is the beach town. There are some people offering a boat trip for USD 7. This trip is very good value for money. Starting in the morning you are taken to a place where you can swim and snorkel (use of equipment is free). Near noon we drove to a second place and while we went for some more swimming and snorkling (although since the equipment is poor and there is not enough for all people you should bring your own), a excellent lunch was prepared. There were crabs, shrimps, several kinds of fish, vegetables, noodles, everything fresh and delicious. The lunch alone would have cost much more than the price of the trip in a restaurant. In the afternoon we stopped at a beach on an island where a buffet of fresh local fruit was built up. Of course we had some more time for swimming. On the way back we stopped at a small fishing village. The cultural sights, the Cham towers and the pagoda with the giant sitting buddha were nice, but there were so many beggars that one couldn't really enjoy them. The fishing village south of Nha Trang is nice, but there are a lot of souvenir shops. The oceanographic institute is worth a visit. Food Nha Trangs speciality is seafood. It is comparatively cheap and everywhere fresh available. (Lotta and Johan) Banana Split cafe is a good travellers cafe. Note that the cafe next door, to the left, previously called 60's bar, thought the secret of success was in the name, and changed 60's bar to... Banana Split cafe! When we were there, all the people were in the real Banana Split, and the owners of "fake banana" yelled at passing tourists to get customers. A cheap, friendly place it Quan An 98 at 98 Hoang Van Thu. They offer mostly delicious noodle soup. Another good place are the restaurants on the sea shore oposite Haiyan hotel, but they are definitely much pricier. An excellent restaurant is Hoan Hai at 6 Phan Chu Trinh, tel 23133. The prices are reasonable. A nice place is the restaurant just next to the jetty in the fishing village south of Nha Trang. The vegetarian restuarant mentioned in the lonely planet guide near the circle market cooks an excellent (and exotic) Banana Flower. The only place with some kind of night life in Nha Trang is the Lizard. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- DALAT All the tourist attractions are 'Asian style', meaning that they correspond more to the taste of local people. The 'Valley of Love', as an example, looks nice, but with all the souvenir shops, the 'Walt Disney' boats and the 'cowboys' it is hard to glimps the beauty of the landscape. To me the landscape looked nice, but not as beautiful than the north of Vietnam. The one thing I liked best (the only one, actually) was the old monk at the Lam Ty Ni Pagoda. He is always smiling, friendly and eager to show and explain things. He has painted in his life already 84000 pictures (this was in October, now this figure probably has increased by a couple of thousend). He sells them in various sizes, some of them postcard size. Once you choose to buy one, he looks at it and then exclaims: "Oh, this one is beautiful. I'm going to name it for you." He has to think only seconds to come up with a name like: "Looking at this picture all sorrow dissolves into emptiness." All his pictures (and the names) are Zen. He also likes to show his guest books. (Michael) The development around Guang Trung resevoir is worth a look. It is baren now, but when the trees grow a bit it should be quite lovely. A new 'meditation center' with guest house overlooks the lake. The government clearly intends this to be a vacation destination. (Michael) Visiting the ethnic villages (Lat and Chill) around Dalat was a bit depressing. The people have lost their semi-nomadic lifestyle and now live in what seems to be enforced poverty. They will soon be integrated into ordinary Vietnamese life. I did not attempt to visit any of the ethnic villages further away from Dalat. (John) A motorcycle taxi with driver can be hired for $5 to shuttle you to all the sights around Dalat. Many of the sights are pretty lame by western standards. I rented a motorcycle $6/day and drove myself without any problems. The mountainous roads make for fun riding. (John) I also saw about ten weddings in the less than 48 hours I was there. (Michael) Dalat is a great place to run; cool and dry with plenty of good trails. I suggest a run out to Su Nu Pagoda at meal time (contrary to the advice in LP) so you can listen to the nuns sing. A run around the lake is also nice as is the run out to Thien Vuong Pagoda and beyond. Although LP warns about getting too far out into the boonies, I had no trouble. I did run into several men in uniform (they could have been off-duty doormen for all I know) but I was universally greeted with smiles and thumbs up, wherever I ran. The bus from the city to the airport takes about 30 minutes and costs USD 3. Food Beware of Shanghai restaurant and its neighbor! The food is ok, but they try to cheat the customers. The napkins served everybody without asking cost and if they don't have the correct change they short change you without so much blinking. I had to ask twice for my change, before they finally said that they didn't have change (Lucky enough I still had some small notes). Some prices they charged were not what was written on the menu, so we had to re-check the bill again. My guess is that because Dalat is such a touristy area they try to rip off people and Vietnamese (the majority of the tourists) do not care or expect things like that. The new Tranh Tranh just around the corner at 4 Tang Bat Ho (21836) is reportedly much better. The food is nice and at a reasonable rate. It fills up every evening with ex-pats and travellers. There is seating upstairs. A place I liked much more was Thanh Thuy restaurant just next to the lake. A nice bar opened on October 2, 1994 is Saigon Nite at 45 Truong Cong. It offers a big variety of drinks (with original alcoholic ingredients imported from the west) which all cost around 25000 VND. There is a pool table in the back room. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CENTRAL HIGHLAND The central highland covers the southern part of the Truong Som Mountain Range. It's main features are the beautiful scenery and the many minority groups (montagnards) living in this area. The region has a temperate climate, where cold nights are not a rarity. Highway 19 is an important route into the Central Highlands, running from Qui Nhon on the coast up to Pleiku. Buses and vans run daily from Qui Nhon to Pleiku, Kontum and Buon Ma Thout. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- AN KHE An Khe is a small town about half way from Qui Nhon to Pleiku on Hwy 19. There is not much to see here. There is a thriving brick manufacturing industry in the area. In 1965, An Khe was chosen as the site of the base camp for the US Army 1st Cavalry Division. The base was huge, and home to the 1st Cav's fleet of 450 helicopters. Today, there is not much evidence that the base ever existed. There are a couple of small, family-run hotels in An Khe where you can get a room for less than $10. An Khe Pass One of the most spectacular mountain passes in Vietnam is on this stretch of hwy 19. It is five km east of An Khe. There is an incredible view from the top of the An Khe pass that is best seen at sunrise. GM-100 On a lonely stretch of Hwy 19, between 15 and 22 km west of An Khe, a French Army unit, Groupe Mobile 100 (GM-100) was wiped out in a Viet Minh ambush in 1954. Historian Bernard Fall describes the fatal battle in his book "Street Without Joy". There is a small stone memorial marking the site on the south side of the highway. Mang Yang Pass The other pass on the Qui Nhon to Pleiku stretch of Hwy 19 is Mang Yang, about 35 km west of An Khe. It does not present as spectacular a view as An Khe pass. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- PLEIKU Hotels The large Pleiku Hotel has nice rooms for $11. The staff here are very helpful, particularly the staff in the hotel restaurant. There was a renovation project taking place here in early 1995 so prices may go up. Tours You can visit the former US special forces base at Plei Me but it is only accessible by motor bike and it is a long haul (20 km road and 20 km on a very dusty trail). Ask the staff at the Pleiku Hotel about arranging the rental of motor bikes and hiring a guide. Hill Tribes There are hill tribe villages throughout the Central Highlands around Pleiku. The only legal way to visit one of these villages is on an arranged tour (ask at the Pleiku Hotel). You can walk into any of the hill tribe villages you pass by on the highway, and the villagers will be very receptive and friendly but be advised that this is illegal. All of the villages around Pleiku have large signs posted saying "restricted area, no tresspassing", in English in big bold letters. It is clear that the Vietnamese government does not want foreigners in close unsupervised contact with hill tribes. Perhaps the reason for their nervousness is the fact that during the war, the hill tribes here received military training and equipment from US Army Special Forces, which made life difficult for invading North Vietnamese Army troops. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- KONTUM Kontum, a small city north of Pleiku. Not much to see here, but the area is pretty and the people friendly. Not many foreigners make it to Kontum. There is hotel accomodation here. ************************************************************************** 3. PLACES (part 2) HO CHI MINH CITY Ho Chi Minh City is a new Asian boomtown and with 3.5 million inhabitants Vietnams largest city. There is still a lot of the old Asia, but it is changing rapidly, becoming modern quite quickly. Ho Chi Minh City is often referred to as Saigon. However, this is only part of the truth, as Ho Chi Minh City also includes other parts, like Cholon. The saddest part of the modernisation are the many beggars, some of them dressing up their wounds, some pretending that they are one legged (binding one leg up behind their bodies), while others were really disabled. Since I have seen beggars only at tourist spots and many beggars were strong and healthy young men I never gave them money. Another point is that I never encountered beggars in other cities (except the tourist spots in NhaTrang). -------------------------------------------------------------------------- SAIGON Catholic Cathedral The Cathedral of Notre Dame was built between 1877 and 1880 on what is thought to be the site of an ancient pagoda. You can see communion celebrated here three times on weekdays and Saturdays and six times on Sundays. Municipal Theatre The municipal theatre is just opposite the Continental Hotel. The place in front of it is the place to be on a Sunday or on a beautiful evening where Saigon's youth meet and circle around on motorscooters to see and be seen. City Hall Stands at the northwest end of Nguyen Hue Boulevard overlooking a statue of Ho Chi Minh. Historical Museum Once known as the National Museum, this ornate building was built in 1928. It displays a wide range of artifacts from prehistoric times (300,000 years ago) and the Dongson period (3,500 BC - 100 AD) up to the formation of the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1930. There numerous artifacts from Chenla, Funan, Han Chinese, Khmer, and Oc-ceo periods, various Vietnamese dynasties, and some hilltribe pieces. Notable are the Cham sculptures, of which the best is the standing bronze Buddha from the 4th-6th century. War Museum Marked by a tank and warplane in the front compound the museum contains the articles of war and various photographs without overt propaganda. War Crimes Museum This museum's message does not come from bombs, helicopters, and tanks in the courtyard. Rather the most disturbing aspect is from the display showing the after-effects of Agent Orange defoliation - bottled human fetuses with shocking deformities. There is a great number of photographs and a some additional exhibits illustrating Man's inhumanity - the Son My (My Lai) massacre on 16 March 1968, and the effects of napalm and phosphorous. However, don't expect to find any displays showing atrocities committed by the Viet Cong or North Vietnamese. Botanical Gardens Since they were established in 1864, the gardens had grown to a collection of nearly 2,000 species, of which its orchids were noteworthy. With the war and its subsequent dislocations, the gardens declined and are still trying to recover today. Former US Embassy The grounds are in a state of neglect with vegetation growing up around the buildings. A plaque outside records the attack during the 1968 Tet Offensive and the final victory in 1975. Check with the guard at the side entrance, it may be possible to go in for a closer look. Xa Loi Pagoda This pagoda is more interesting for its history, despite the fact that it houses a relic of the Buddha. Built in 1956, the pagoda became a center of dissent against the Diem regime. In August 1963, armed men ransacked the pagoda and arrested 400 monks and nuns, including the country's 80-year- old Buddhist patriarch under orders from President Diem's brother. Presidential Palace (Reunification Hall) The residence of the French governor was built on this site in 1868 and was later renamed the Presidential Palace. In February 1962, in an assassination attempt against President Diem, a pair of planes that took off to attack Viet Cong positions suddenly turned back to bomb the Presidential Palace. The president escaped, but the palace had to be rebuilt. The building remains as it was on April 30, 1975 when an NVA tank crashed though the front gates. Saigon Central Mosque Since Islamic law forbids the use of human or animal figures for decoration, the mosque's simplicity stands in stark contrast to the fussy Chinese temple decorations and elaborate ritual objects of Buddhist pagodas. Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935, only half-a-dozen Indian Muslims remain in Saigon. There are 12 other mosques serving Saigon's 5000 Muslims. Mariaman Hindu Temple This is the only active Hindu temple remaining in Saigon to serve the 50 or 60 Tamil Hindus. However, it is a curious sight to watch the numerous Chinese Vietnamese Hoa Hao worshippers prostrating themselves with incense sticks in front of a Hindu deity. The temple has two colorful towers decorated with a tangle of lions, goddesses, and guardians. Inside there is a statue of Mariamman flanked by Maduriveeran and Pechiamman. Revolutionary Museum This is the same as the museum in Hanoi, displaying photographs, some military hardware in the back compound, and memorabilia of the Revolution. Ton Duc Thang Museum Opened in 1989, this museum contains photographs and memorabilia dedicated to the life of Ton Duc Thang, a comrade of Ho Chi Minh. Bac Ton was president of Vietnam and died in 1980. Art Museum Work from the classical period through to socialist realist is displayed in this cream mansion at 97A Pho Duc Chinh Street. Phung Son Tu Pagoda This small temple was built just after WW II by Fukien Chinese. It is dedicated to Ong Bon, the Guardian of Happiness and Virtue. The most notable feature of the temple is the front doors decorated with fearsome armed warriors. Incense coils patiently burn in the open well of the pagoda, spreading their sweet scent. Nha Rong (Dragon House) The building has been converted into a museum honoring the life of Ho Chi Minh through pictures. Shopping Cho Ben Thanh Market This is a large covered central market which, together with Binh Tay Market in Cholon, is the largest in Saigon. Cho Ben Thanh, at the intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi, and Tran Hung Dao boulevards, is interesting to walk through, but there is little of its clothes, food, household utensils, cheap jewelry, and toys worth buying. Many airline offices are near the Rex Hotel, some in the same block, some on the other side of Nguyen Hue Boulevard, others just round the corner (turn right just before the city hall). Just opposite the Vietcom bank (the main branch next to Saion river ???) there is an animal market. It is in a small hall, looking more like a storage shed for some tools. There are dogs, cats, birds, snakes, mice, monkeys, and some other sepcies on sale. I didn't inquire for prices ;-> South of the Rex Hotel is an electronic market. You can get really cheap CDs (for as little as VND 20000), but of course they are Taiwanese copies. The cover is printed badly, but the sound quality is mostly ok. It is possible (and advisable) to listen to them before you buy them. Hotel In the region of Pham Ngu Lao and Le Lai street (around Kim Cafe and Sinh Cafe) are many small hotels with cheap rooms. Tran Thi Canh: Just opposite Kim Cafe there is a small mini hotel with clean rooms from USD 3 to USD 15. The one for three dollars is on top of the roof. Ask for a room on the backside (We had number 7, with private toilette and shower (cold water only) a refridgerator and even a small balcony and a desk.) Lars found a nice, and cheap, little place called Houng Residotel, 46 Le Thi Rieng street. Maybe 10 rooms. I shared a large double for $6, max. $15 for a room. Run by a family, nice people. It's 5-10 min walk from central market, Cho Ben Than. A little hard to find since it doesn't look like a hotel. If the door is closed, ring the bell. There is also Guest House, 127 Cong Quynh with doubles from USD 8 to 10. The Fuji Mini Hotel in the 5th district has 12 rooms, all with air conditioning, cable TV (CNN, MTV, BBC) and a small desk. It is USD 30 for a single and USD 40 for double rooms. The Bi Saigon is brand new (June 1995) and very clean and nice. A small flat with two rooms, airconditioning, bathroom and a balcony with fabulous view over Siagon costs USD 34. It's located in a small side alley from Pham Ngu Lao Street. Cafe Mogambo, 20 Duong Thi Sach is USD 35 for a large room. The Continental Hotel is the most traditional hotel in Saigon. It was the place to be during the Vietnam war. The Rex has a wonderful terrasse on its roof overlooking the intersection of Le Loi St. and Ngueyen Hue Boulevard. One of the best hotels is the five star Saigon Floating Hotel in the Saigon river, where it resides since it has been towed from the Great Barrier Reef in Australia in 1989. The address is 1A Me Linh Square, Tel 290783, Fax 290784. Other Hotels that have international standard and prices: Century Saigon Hotel, 68A Nguyen Hue Boulevard, Tel 231818, Fax 292732. Chains First Hotel, 18 Hoang Viet-Tan Binh Dist, Tel 441175, Fax 444282. Hotel Son Chancery Saigon, 196 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Tel 299152, Fax 25464, USD 86 - USD 144. New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Lelai Street, Tel 295310, Fax 230710. Saigon Star Hotel, 204 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Tel 230260, Fax 230255. Food Kim Cafe and Sinh Cafe (6 Pham Ngu Lao St) are known all over Saigon. The area around those two travelling cafes that also offer tours (see tours section) is full of cheap places to eat. I prefered Kim Cafe over Sinh Cafe, because the service was much better (in fact, excellent), and the beggars and post card selling kids were not allowed to come into Kim Cafe. There is an excellent pizza restaurant at Pham Ngu Lao St, towards Cholon from Kim Cafe. Que Huong/ Vietnam Motherland on the same street has very good food and big portions. There is a nice (and cheap) cafe at 123 Nguyen Hue Boulevard called Lan Phuong. The owner is very nice and didn't try to overchage me (something special in this 'region of the rich tourists' in Saigon.) Two excellent and lovely restaurants that are next door to each other on Dong Khoi are Lemon Grass and Tan Nam. Both are beautifully decorated and the food and its presentation were superb. One of the most famous, and most expensive, retaurants is Maxim's. It's full of Japanese and certainly overrated. Another special treat is the Indochine Restaurant (Dong Duong) at 144 Tran Hung Dao Street (tel 395476). It's not exactly cheap, but has very good food. They have the strangest of dishes, such as goat penis, pig brain, snake head and uterus. A special treat is an evening at the rooftop bar or on the terasse of the Rex hotel. The main attraction is the superb view over one of the busiest intersections of Saigon. In the evening, especially before holidays, Saigon's youth gather there to 'see and been seen'. Although prices were about three times of Kim Cafe, the service was lousy. But of course location and view cost as well... Currently the place to be in the evening is the Apocalypse Now at Dung Do St, just opposite the Saigon Hotel. This bar is very popular with Western travellers. Although open earlier, it doesn't start to get crowded until 10pm. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHOLON Cholon (Chinatown) bustles with activity that is of interest in itself, but the finest pagodas in Saigon are also found here. Cha Tam Church Built around the turn of the century, this is where President Ngo Dinh Diem was captured and assassinated with his brother in November 1963. Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Visitors are greeted by a magnificent carved wooden boat hanging over the entrance and immediately to the left is an oversized representation of Quan Cong's horse and groom. At the main altar is Quan Cong flanked by General Chau Xuong and the mandarin Quan Binh in glass cases. Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda This pagoda, built in the 19th century by Fukien immigrants, is dedicated to Chua Thai Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility. The pagoda attracts visits from childless women. Quan Am Pagoda This is thought to be the oldest pagoda in the city. The complex contains a series of courtyards and altars dedicated to a range of deities and spirits. The roof of the main structure supports four sets of ornate figures and is fronted with old gold and lacquer panels of guardian spirits. The main altar displays a seated statue of A-Pho, the Holy Mother, in front of which is a white ceramic statue of Quan Am, the Goddess of Purity and Motherhood. Thien Hau Pagoda This early 19th century pagoda is dedicated to the worship of both Buddha and Thien Hau Thanh Mau - Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The most interesting part of the pagoda is the roof, richly decorated with the high-relief frieze depicting episodes from the Legends of the Three Kingdoms. It is one of the most ornate in Vietnam and can best be seen from the open courtyard. Phung Son Pagoda Also known as Go Pagoda, it was built on the site of an earlier Cambodian structure at the beginning of the 19th century. There is a large seated gilded Buddha in the inner sanctuary surrounded by a variety of other figures from several Asian and Southeast Asian countries. Shopping in Cholon Binh Tay Market Binh Tay, with a wonderful array of noises, smells and colors, is one of the most colorful and exciting markets in Saigon. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Around HO CHI MINH CITY Phuoc Hai Tu Pagoda Built by local Cantonese in 1909, this is one of the most colorful pagodas in Saigon. Dedicated to the Emperor of Jade, the supreme Taoist god, this temple also contains a wide range of other deities including the Buddhist archangel Michael, a Sakyamuni Buddha, statues of two generals who tamed the Green and the White Dragon, and Quan Am. There is also a Hall of Ten Hells with reliefs depicting the one thousand tortures of hell. Women sell birds at the pagoda that are set free to gain merit and there is a pond containing large turtles. Tran Hung Dao Pagoda This temple was built in 1932 for the worship of the victorious 13th century general Hung Dao. It contains a series of bas-reliefs depicting the general's successes, carved dragons, and weapons. Vinh Nghiem Pagoda A Japanese-style pagoda completed in 1967, it is one of the largest in Vietnam. The structure is a classical seven-story pagoda with a spacious sanctuary.(only open on holidays). Inside is a large Japanese-style Buddha in an attitude of meditation, flanked by two goddesses. Le Van Duyet Temple Le Van Duyet is the South Vietnamese hero who put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunited Vietnam. The main sanctuary displays a strange collection of the Marshal's personal possessions: a stuffed tiger, a miniature mountain, whale baleen, carved elephants, crystal goblets, spears, and other weapons of war. The Marshal is buried here with his wife. Giac Vien Tu Pagoda The Pagoda of Buddha's Complete Enlightenment was built in 1771 and dedicated to the worship of the Emperor Gia Long. Although restored, Giac Vien Tu remains one of the best preserved temples in Vietnam. It is lavishly decorated, with over 100 carvings of various divinities and spirits, dominated by a large gilded image of Sakyamuni. Giac Lam Pagoda Built in 1744, the Forest of Enlightenment Pagoda is the oldest in Saigon. It has a sacred Bodhi tree in the courtyard, the gift of a monk from Sri Lanka, and curious for the blue and white porcelain plates used to decorate the roof and some of the small towers in the garden facing the pagoda. Inside there are rows of funerary tablets with pictures of the dead and a main altar with layers of Buddhas dominated by the Buddha of the Past. Particularly interesting is a 49-Buddha oil lamp. The monks are very friendly and are a good source for the history of the pagoda. Some speak good English and French. Tunnels of Cu Chi About 22 miles (36 km) northwest of Saigon is a short section of the 124 miles (200 km) of tunnels that has been widened to allow tourists to share the underground experience. The Viet Minh began work on the tunnels in 1948 and used them for storage and shelter with sleeping quarters, hospitals and schools. Cu Chi was zealously Communist and the tunnels were used by the Viet Cong to launch the Tet Offensive in 1968. Admission US$3. Nui Ba Den Black Lady Mountain rises dramatically from the plain 66 miles (106 km) from Saigon. Reaching a height of almost 3,280 feet (1,000 m), there is a good vantage of the surrounding plain from the top. A number of shrines to the Black Woman are located on the mountain and pilgrims still visit the site. Fierce battles were fought here between the French and Americans, and the Viet Minh. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- TAY NINH Tay Ninh is the center of the Cao Dai religion. The Cao Dai Great Temple is the main reason to visit Tay Ninh. The cathedral is set within a large complex of schools and administrative buildings painted in pastel yellow. The twin-towered cathedral is of European design, but having distinctly Asian features. On the facade are high-relief figures of Cao Dai saints. Every day at noon there is a great mass. There are one day trips from Saigon to Tay Ninh. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- VUNG TAU Vung Tau, formerly also known as Cap Satin Jaques, is a beach resort located on a peninsula some 128 km south-east of Saigon. The whole peninsula is only about 7.5 km long. There are four main beach areas, the Front Beach, the Back Beach, Bai Dau and Bai Dua. While the Front Beach is more expensive than the rest, Bai Dau not only has the cheapest guest houses, but is also the most relaxing part, located three km from the town center. There is a giant Jesus statue overlooking the resort. It is hollow, so that you can climb the stairs to the head of the statue and enjoy an impressive view of the surroundings. There are many Buddhist shrines along the beach and a Buddha's Park within the city. There is a fast hydrofoil boat from Saigon, just opposite the Majestic Hotel. There are two types of tickets, for USD 7 and USD 12, but they give you the same comfort. The boat takes about 4 hours. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- MEKONG DELTA (John) The two-day Mekong Delta tour offered by the Sinh Cafe was about $20 and was particularly good. The guide spoke very good English and was quite knowledgeable about the region. Also, the hotel they were using in early January was the best I stayed in throughout Vietnam. It was so new I could smell the paint. Food In the Mekong Delta one specialty easily obtainable is snake. Some restaurants offer them life, so you can choose and they are certainly fresh. One kilogram should cost around VND 25000 to 35000, cooking between 15000 to 35000. One kg serves four to five persons. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- MYTHO With a population of 100000, My Tho is the capital of Tien Giang Province, a region famous for its orchids, coconut palms, and fruit. The city was founded in the 1680s by political refugees from Taiwan. The economy of the area is based on fishing and the cultivation of rice, bananas, citrus fruit, coconuts, longans, and mangos. My Tho Church Built almost a century ago, today two priests, two sisters and several assistants minister to much of My Tho's 7,000 Catholics. The pastel yellow and white church is on the corner of Nguyen Trai Street and Hung Vuong Boulevard, a 5 minute walk from the central market. It is open to visitors every day from 4:30 - 6:30 am and 2:30 - 6:30 pm. Central Market Sprawls over a large area from Le Loi Boulevard down to the river. The streets are filled with stalls selling everything from fresh food and bulk tobacco to boat propellers. The river is the best spot to observe life in My Tho. Vinh Trang Pagoda Built in 1849, the pagoda displays a mixture of Chinese, Vietnamese and colonial architecture. It is now a beautiful place, with no signs of the touristy stuff described in the Loney Planet guide. Even the awful Ho Chi Minh statue has been removed. Tan Long Island Tan Long Island is renowned for its longan orchards. It can be reached with a 5-minute boat trip from the dock at the foot of Le Loi Boulevard. Wooden fishing boats of the type used by the 'boat people' to flee Vietnam, line the thick palm-fringed shores of the island. Island of the Coconut Monk (Con Phung) Ong Dao Dua, the 'Coconut Monk,' established a bizarre open-air sanctuary on this island for his followers shortly after the end of WW II. He was a charismatic character who founded a religion known as Tinh Do Cu Si, a fusion of Buddhism and Christianity. He is said to have meditated for 3 years on a stone slab while eating nothing but coconuts. He died some years ago as a prisoner of the communists who arrested him for anti- government activities. Boats to the island can be chartered from the south end of Trung Trac Street at the ferry landing. Snake Farm About 6 miles (10 km) from town at Dong Tam there is farm that raises snakes for the strong healing powers of their flesh and gall. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CANTHO Cantho, the political, economic, and cultural center of the region and capital of Hau Giang Province, is the only university city in the Delta. Cantho University was founded in 1966 and conducts valuable agricultural research that has contributed substantially to improving production and pest control. This is probably the nicest city in the Delta. Cantho Market The rich variety and abundance of fruit, seafood and vegetables produced in the region is evident along Hai Ba Trung street and in the market's main building at the intersection of Hai Ba Trung and Nam Ky Khoi Nghia streets. Munirangsyaram Pagoda This typical of Khmer Hinayana Buddhist pagodas found in the region. The upstairs sanctuary contains a 5-foot (1 1/2-meter) representation of Sakyamuni sitting under a Bodhi tree. Built in 1946, the pagoda serves the Khmer community of Cantho which numbers about 2,000. Hotel Khai Hoan: A typical commie state hotel. It has private bathrooms, though. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- LONG XUYEN Catholic Cathedral This is one of the largest Catholic churches in the Delta with a seating capacity of 1,000. It was constructed between 1966 and 1973 with a 164 foot (50-meter) high bell tower in the form of clasped-hands that is visible from outside town. Quan Thanh Pagoda This small pagoda was built by Cantonese residents about 70 years ago. With lively murals on the entrance wall the altar displays figures of General Quan Cong and his two cohorts General Chau Xuong and the mandarin Quan Binh. To the left is Ong Bon, Guardian Spirit of Happiness and Virtue, and on the right is Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea. Dinh Than My Phuoc Pagoda Interesting for its roof and the murals on the wooden walls near the altar. Cao Dai Church On the outskirts of town traveling towards Chau Doc is a Cao Dai church worth visiting if you can't see the Cao Dai cathedral at Tay Ninh. Cho Moi District Cross the river from Long Xuyen to see rich groves of banana, durian, guava, jackfruit, longan, mango, mangosteen, and plum. The women here are said to be the most beautiful in the Mekong Delta. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAU DOC Chau Doc (population 80,000) is an important trading and marketing center for the surrounding countryside. Until the mid-18th century this region was part of Cambodia. There is still a large Khmer population and the largest Cham settlement in the Delta. The Chau Doc district is also the seat of the 1 - 1.5 million followers of the Hoa Hao religion, founded in 1939 at the village of Hoa Hao. There are numerous interesting temples here, especially at Nui Sam and at Ba Chuc there is a temple and ossuary containing the remains of 2,500 Khmer Krom massacred by the Khmer Rouge in September 1978. Market A large market selling fresh produce and black market goods smuggled in from Thailand spreads from the riverfront down and along Le Cong Thanh Doc, Phu Thu, Bach Dang and Chi Lang streets. Nui Sam (Sam Mountain) Three miles (5 km) southwest of Chau Doc is a rocky hill is literally honeycombed with sanctuaries, tombs, and temples. Most visitors come only to see Tay An Pagoda, Lady Chua Xu Temple, and the Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau, but walk right up to the top of the hill where you can get a good view of the surrounding countryside. From here you can appreciate that this is some of the most productive land in Vietnam. Chau Phu Temple This temple was built in 1926 for locals to worship Thoai Ngoc Hau, the man responsible for building the nearby Chau Doc Canal which defines the border with Cambodia. Chau Giang Mosque Take a ferry across the Hau River from the Chau Giang terminal in town to visit the mosque which serves the district's Cham Muslim community. Hoa Hao It was here, 12 miles (20 km) east of Chau Doc, that Huynh Phu So founded an influential indigenous religion that attempted to rid Buddhism of its pagodas and clergy. After WW II, the Hoa Hao community created an anti Marxist political party called Don Xa, which led to Huynh Phu So's assassination by the Viet Minh. After 1975, the Communists clamped down on the Hoa Hao and the sect lost much of its influence. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- RACH GIA Rach Gia, capital of Kien Giang Province, is a dirty town known for its bia om bars and prostitution. Ironically, the province is said to be the richest in Vietnam, its wealth based on rice and seafood. Phu Quoc, a renowned fish sauce, is produced here. Reflective of the typical religious diversity in the Delta, Rach Gia has a small Cao Dai temple near the bus station on Nguyen Trung Truc Street and a Protestant church further along the street in the direction of the river. Rach Gia Church, a red brick structure built in 1918, is in Vinh Thanh Van across the channel from the market. Nguyen Trung Truc Temple Is named after the 19th century resistance leader who was active in Cochinchina during the 1860s and led the raid that resulted in the attack on the French warship L'Esperance. Although the French repeatedly tried to capture him, it wasn't until 1868 that they succeeded after taking his mother and a number of civilians hostage. He gave himself up and was executed by the French in the marketplace on October 27, 1868. Oc-eo This ancient city, found about 6 miles (10 km) inland from Rach Gia, was an important port at the height of the ancient Kingdom of Funan from the 1st - 6th centuries AD. It lay submerged for centuries until it was rediscovered in the 1940s. It is an important site for archeologists, but there is not a great deal for tourists to see. Some artifacts are found in the Historical and Art museums in Saigon. Most of what is known of Funan comes from this site which revealed evidence of contact with China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Persia, the Roman Empire, Thailand, and written accounts of Chinese emissaries and travelers. Excavations have shown that buildings were constructed on piles and the city was connected by a complex network of irrigation and transport canals. Like many of the ancient empires of the region, Oc-eo built its wealth on controlling trade between the east (China) and the west (India, Mediterranean). The site is near the village of Tan Hoi, and is only accessible by boat, which you can hire from the riverfront beyond Vinh Tan Van Market. You may need special permission to visit the area, so ask at the local Vietnam Tourism Authority. ************************************************************************** 4. LITERATURE AND OTHER INFORMATION 4.1 GUIDEBOOKS Vietnam for Travellers by Travellers. Available since October 9, 1995 it is the most up-to-date guide book available. VIETNAM - A Travel Survivel Kit, LONELY PLANET: This is the one for hotels, routes, schedules & fares. It also presents some interesting information for alternative travel to Viet-Nam (e.g. where to learn Vietnamese on the cheap). South-East Asia on a Shoestring, Lonely Planet Covers the whole region. MAVERIC: This one's written by Len Rutledge, the Thailand and Indonesia man for Maveric. I don't think he enjoyed Viet-Nam very much because he seems to like creature comforts. Still, this can be a handy book if you're not sure you're up to "basic accomodations". EURASIA GUIDES: This one's by Barbra Cohen, an army psycologist during the war. It's by far the best source for business and returning veteran travel. Full of addresses. Some good cultural information. FIELDING: This one's the most up-to-date. It's got some good thoughts on how long it takes to get places and is fairly PC. PASSPORT BOOKS: This "Viet-Nam Handbook" is another '95 issue. It's probably the best on culture (with Cohen a close second). Another good thing about it is that it's SMALL. Finally, it covers the whole of "Indochina". TRAVEL BUGS: This one's full of georgous pictures and interesting info in boxes. Its usefulllness in the area of hotels and restaurants may be a bit questionable (and certainly is not extensive). INSIGHT: Even better pictures than Travel Bugs with the same format in which nuts-&-Bolts travel info is relegated to the back sixth of the book. This one was written by a team which included some Vietnamese, so you get a "local" or "native" angle. It's probably my favorite because once you're there you can always get a hotel or eat somewhere, but without this book you won't get as much of a feel for the ambiance and history... "Thailand, Indochina & Burma Handbook" from Trade & Travel Publications. Seemed to have more historical and cultural background than Lonely Planet. Not as good on accomodation and maps, though. West, Helen, ed. Vietnam, revised edition (Hong Kong: APA Publications, 1994). -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.2 TRAVELLERS TALES Hayslip, Le Ly. When Heaven and Earth Changed Place. (1990, Penguin Books) Lewis, Norman. A Dragon Apparent: Travels in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam (1951; current reprint by Eland Books). Shawcross, William. River Journeys (1983). Stewart, Lucretia. Tiger Balm: Travels in Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia (London: Chatto & Windus, 1992). Theroux, Paul. The Great Railway Bazaar. It is not exclusively about Vietnam, but includes some chapters on it. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.3 HISTORICAL/ POLITICAL BOOKS Butler, Robert Olen. A Good Scent from a Strange Mountain. A collection of stories about the American War and the Vietnamese people. Fall, Bernard B. Street Without Joy: Indochina at War 1946-54 (Harrisburg, Pennsylvania: Stackpole Company, 1961). Fenn, Charles. Ho Chi Minh: A Biographical Introduction (London: Studio Vista, 1973). Griesenfeld, Guenter. Land der Reisfelder. Vietnam, Laos, Kampuchea, Geschichte und Gegenwart (Pahl-Rugenstein, 1988). This is an excellent history book on the three Indochinese countries. Hammel, Eric. Fire in the Streets. Details the battle of Hue. Karnow, Stanley. Vietnam: A History (New York: Viking Press, 1983). Marr, David G. Vietnamese Anti-colonialism 1885-1925 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1971). McCoy, Alfred W. The Politics of Heroin: CIA Complicity in the Global Drugs Trade (New York: Lawrence Hill Books, 1991). Morrocco, John. Thunder from Above. The Vietnam Experience. Air War 1941 - 1968. (Boston Publishing Company). A good book detailing many events of the Air War in Vietnam. Patti, Archimedes L. Why Vietnam? (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1980). Sipri. Ecological Consequences of the Second Indochina War (Stockholm: Almquvist & Wiksell, 1976). Sheehan, Neil. A Bright Shining Lie: John Paul Vann & America in Vietnam (New York: Random House, 1988). A Bright Shining Lie and Two Cities: Hanoi and Saigon. Stahl, Sabine/ Ulrich Mihr (Hrsg.) Die Krallen der Tiger und Drachen. Wirtschaftsboom und Selbstbewusstsein in Asien. Droemer Verlag 1995. An excellent book about the current political and economical developments in Asia. Taylor, Keith Weller. The Birth of Vietnam (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1983). Tran Ky Phuong. Cham Ruins. Journey in Search of an Ancient Civilazation (Hanoi: The Gioi Publishers, 1993). The standard work about the Cham ruins in Vietnam. Truong Nhu Tang. Viet Cong Memoirs (1985). An autobiography by a former VC cadre. Turner, Robert F. Vietnamese Communism: Its Origins and Development (Stanfore: Hoover Institution Press, 1975). -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.4 NOVELS Baker, Mary. Nam. The Vietnam War in the Words of the Soldiers Who Fought There. 1981 Bao Ninh. The Sorrow of War. The story of a Vietnamese soldier's trouble of reintegration long after the war. Berent, Mark. Rolling Thunder. Steel Tiger. Phantom Leader. A pilot himself, the auther describes the war seen from an American pilot's position, in a captivating way. Duras, Marguerite. L'Amant (The Lover). A young French girl (born in Indochine) falls in love with a rich, much older Chinese. Greene, Graham. The Quiet American (London: Heinemann, 1954). The most famous Western work about Vietnam. Set in the last days of the French rule. Grey, Anthony. Saigon. The story of an American family that visit Vietnam as tourists, soldiers and correspondents. The rescue of the Ameircan pilot during WWII by Ho Chi Minh is based on reality. Herr, Michael. Dispaches (1977). The American War from the perspective of an American war correspondent. Ho Chi Minh. Prison Diary (Hanoi: The Gioi Publishers, 1994). Poems written by Ho Chi Ming during his imprisonment in China. Lansing, John. The Black Eagles. (Zebra Books). This is actually a series of some 15 books on the American War in the style of Rambo films. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.5 MOVIES Cyclo. (France 1995). Director Tran Anh Hung show todays Vietnam with the example of youth gangs. It's a violent and romantic picture at the same time. The movie received the Golden Lion of the 52nd Film Festival in Venice. Indochine. (France 1992). The love story of a Vietnamese princess and a French soldier before the background of the communist revolution. The Scent of the Green Papaya. (France/ Vietnam 1994). A beautiful movie telling the story of a young girl that works as a servant in the house of a rich Vietnamese family. Not much action, but very beautiful pictures and giving some insight into the domestic life of the old Vietnam. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.6 INTERNET The archive for this guide is at rtfm.mit.edu in /pub/usenet/news.answers/travel/vietnam-guide/ http://sunsite.unc.edu/vietnam This is an excellent WWW server containing a lot of information on Vietnam. They also carry this guide in HTML format (http://sunsite.unc.edu/vietnam/vntra.html). Lonely Planet has a page on Vietnam as well: http://www.lonelyplanet.com.au/dest/sea/vietnam.htm http://www.theblackbox.com/~whatsup/products/vietnam/vietnam.html A comercial service in Hong Kong that also markets a CD ROM on Vietnam. ************************************************************************** A. CONTRIBUTORS Apart from my own personal experiences I have been able to include a lot of information from other people and sources. Where it is necessary to do so, I put the author in front of the paragraph, mostly so when personal experiences/ feelings are important. Whenever possible I tried to contact the author of the information to get permission and I include his/ her e-mail address for reference. Brigitte Wirtz brigitte.wirtz@zfe.siemens.de Doug Skeggs skeggsd@govonca.gov.on.ca Howard Marc Spector hms@fohnix.metronet.com John Lauderdale eelauder@ee.ust.hk Lars Falting eualfg@eua.ericsson.se Lotta Lindquist, Johan Eker lotta@atomos.fysik.lth.se Michael G Newman mnewman@shell.portal.com Nguyen T. Lam lam@cptca.neep.wisc.edu Rick Green rick@theblackbox.com William Bangs wbbangs@u.washington.edu ********************************************************************* Peter M. Geiser Seeblickstr. 10 9010 St. Gallen SWITZERLAND geiser.peter@ch.swissbank.com *********************************************************************